By Jessica Ramesch
For International Living
Driving up into the hills, I am suddenly surrounded by orange trees. They are currently laden with hard green fruits. In September, though, there will be an abundance of ripe, fragrant oranges as plump as you please. Then the Orange Fair will draw locals from all the surrounding villages.
It’s a sight to see: the men sharp as daggers in their crisp white shirts and pintado hats…the petite women doll-like in pollera dresses, gold ornaments in their hair. They dance, play games, hold singing competitions (the idea is to improvise rhymes with which to tease each other), and of course, enjoy plenty of sweet, cold oranges.
All this takes place in Penonome, founded by the Spanish in 1581. Back then, the city’s importance was its location—not only was it founded at Panama’s geographical center, but it also lay on the historical route known as el Camino de Cruces. America’s first interoceanic trail, this stone marvel defied the ravages of time and the even more savage tropical jungle. The crossing saw immeasurable treasure and tragedy centuries ago, when silver and gold still crossed the isthmus in caravans.
About 94 miles from Panama City, Penonome is today known as a symbol of agricultural wealth. The town serves as a business center for many farmers and ranchers. The reason is, once again, due to its central location, as Penonome is more or less equidistant from major cities Panama City, David, and Santiago. It’s also less than an hour from some of Panama’s most legendary beaches.
The bustling business town looks small and perhaps even unimpressive. But don’t let the men on horseback fool you—there is some serious money rolling through here. And thanks to that money, Penonome offers sturdy infrastructure and many comforts. In addition to grocery stores, drug stores, and restaurants, Penonome boasts banks, hotels and resorts…and one of Panama’s best-known Carnival celebrations.
The ranches and farms are not Penonome’s main attractions, though. Today’s travelers are discovering the area and its many eco-tourism opportunities. Balneario Las Mendozas is a popular spot to take a fresh-water dip. If the river isn’t your thing, head to Juan Hombron beach, just 15 minutes from the main plaza. The sands and waters here are smooth and pristine, and the birds and tiny fishing boats make for picturesque vacation shots.
If you’re itching to drive an all-terrain vehicle and see a Panama less-traveled, head to Omar Torrijos National Park. More commonly referred to as El Copé (pronounced “El Kop-eh”), it’s named after former dictator General Omar Torrijos, who died here in a mysterious plane crash.
The massive park is backed by mist-topped mountains and dense with primary forest growth. Most visitors head here to see the plentiful birdlife. Sight snowcap and green thorntail hummingbirds, as well as the rare bare-necked umbrella bird, whose call sounds strangely more like a roar than a chirp.
Penonome’s signature eco-attraction is Guacamaya Hill, named after the region’s loud, flamboyantly colored Macaws. It offers the best views in the district from several lookout points along its hiking trail. Along the way, you’ll see small villages, natural caves and views of the sparkling Grande River. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a piggy little peccary or a sleek, sloe-eyed ocelot.
If you don’t have time to go hiking or visit the national park, there’s enough in the village to keep you busy. Head to the Cocle Crafts Market, known as one of Panama’s best. You’ll find traditional souvenirs, including soapstone figurines, hammocks, diablito (or “little devil”) masks and even exotic flowers and plants. Be sure to take a look at the sombreros pintados, a hat worn during traditional dances and originating in the La Pintada area of Penonome.
If you’re looking to learn more about local handicrafts and traditions, you can visit the nearby saddle shop, where saddles are worked entirely by hand. Or spend some time at the soapstone mine. You can watch and take pictures…or get right in there and work alongside the locals.
Despite the excellent infrastructure and location, you’ll find very few expats living in Penonome. As a result, property prices are still very low. Buy a lot of over 10,000 square feet for as little as $18,000 or a three-bedroom Panamanian cottage…on a lot of nearly 4,000 square feet…for $46,000. Now that’s what I call the real Panama.